Oh Edinburgh. This place is my all-time favourite – I honestly love it. I have actually tried on more than one occasion to secure a job up there, but the powers above don’t agree. I’d also be wary of living there as I’d worry I’d lose the magic, if you understand what I mean? But why do I love it so much? It’s a hard on to answer, but the mix of buildings, the winding streets, the green spaces and the plethora of good food options all help!
This was actually our fourth trip to Edinburgh as a couple, and we’ve each been a couple of times separately too. We’ve definitely got a good feel for the city and where does the best food – through good luck and plenty of research! Here’s our top places…
For Breakfast, Brunch or Lunch: Loudons (link)
This was a place I was *really* pleased to find. The recently opened New Waverley branch was a short walk from our apartment, and conveniently placed partway up the Royal Mile. Well priced, a vast selected of breakfast dishes and a really interesting lunch menu too – anywhere that does mac’n’cheese on toast is a good’un in my books!
I highly recommend their Benny’s – my classic with smoked salmon was rich with a perfect hollandaise and couldn’t-be-better runny yolks. My husband also loved his massive Benny stack which came with haggis, black pudding, bacon, tomato chutney and the compulsory poached eggs…
For Brunch or Snacking: Hula Juice Bar (link)
This has been our go-to for years. Whilst I am very, very sad about the removed of the cheese-on-toast side to their soups (if their Haggis & Potato Soup is available you must order it), we still squeezed in multiple visits into our trip. Their smoothies are yum (favourites are the Nutty Professor and the Frangipani), the bakes on point. They also do really, really good porridge with a healthy portion of Nutella…
For a Fancy Dinner: Gardener’s Cottage (link)
I’m going to be doing a full review of this place, but if you’re a foodie then this is my biggest recommendation. The building was once a derelict cottage on one side of Calton Hill, and is now home to some bloody good cooking. The seating is communal style, there’s limited choice (particularly in the evenings) and you absolutely have to book – and pretty much everything we ate was delicious. Go hungry though, we ordered the five course dinner, but it turned into more like eight…
For a Really Fancy Dinner: The Kitchen (link)
This is where W took me on the weekend we got engaged, and it’s got it’s Michelin Star for very good reason. I still think about the dish involving the pig ear (3.5 years on!). Pricey but if you’re celebrating then why not?!
For Dinner with a View: The Outsider (link)
I really, really loved this place. What looks like a slightly shabby modern pub on the street opens up as you walk through – big windows with a lovely sunset view of the castle. Service was super-friendly – despite the only waiting staff we saw being rushed off her feet with a nearly full restaurant.
I ate a delicious dish of Sea Trout with Brie Risotto which was flavoursome, indulgent and yet still quite light, and W enjoyed a Hake Fillet with Chorizo and White Bean Broth. My Lime Tart to finish was delicious, and the *massive* cheeseboard W ordered was a gorgeous selection of cheeses, some very good oatcake, apple, grapes, quince paste AND a massive wedge of sourdough. Best thing was he couldn’t finish it, so I had to help. #winning!
This is another one where they will be a full review…
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Strong gelato choices at Mary's Milk Bar today 👌🏻 Mine: one scoop Blue Cheese & Walnut, one scoop Cinnamon. His: one scoop Whisky & Marmalade, one scoop Peanut Butter & Paprika. I don't think I could choose a favourite, the Blue Cheese & Walnut was INCREDIBLE, and the Peanut Butter & Paprika utterly moreish. I've had @marysmilkbar on my foodie bucket list for a very long time, so I'm glad I've finally ticked it off 🍦
For Ice-Cream: Mary’s Milk Bar (link)
I have no idea why it’s taken me so long to visit Mary’s as it’s somewhat an institution, but we finally did. SO. GOOD. We somehow managed to arrive just as the sun broke through the cloud, so didn’t have to queue (by the time we’d ordered the queue was down the street) but it would be worth queueing for. Creamy gelato, crucially not too soft, and some really interesting flavours.
The blue cheese ice-cream in particular was wonderful – just a hint of blue cheese, then a stronger flavour in some mouthfuls, never over-powering. I’m wishing I could have some more of this! I paired it with a Cinnamon ice-cream which was the perfect balance of spicy and sweet. W’s choice of Peanut Butter & Paprika (so good!) with Whisky Marmalade (needed more whisky) was also solid.
In the past we’ve also had good meals at Urban Angel, The Dogs, and Pickles – though it’s been a good few years since we’ve visited these spots. I’ve also got The White Horse firmly earmarked for our next visit, and I really want to visit Makars Gourmet Mash bar too. Stockbridge Market on Sundays is a great visit, particularly if you have cooking facilities (the pie stall looked so good), and they also have plenty of street food options – the queue for the Japanese dumplings was huge, so I imagine they’re good…
Have you ever visited Edinburgh? Where do you recommend?